Indiana Getaway

Years ago, maybe 20+ years ago, I was returning from a visit with Marcheta in California, and struck up a conversation with the gentleman in the plane seat next to me. He was an engineer with Cummins Diesel in Columbus, Indiana, and asked if I had ever visited there. Obviously that answer was no, but as he explained the architectural inspiration and treasures of this community, I made a mental note to visit there . . . sometime. Years turned to decades, family expanded, but retirement provided the desire and time to travel. Of course, travelling is much more fun with our favorite adventure companions, Brad and Andrew.

Thank goodness they have such a busy schedule that we had to make our reservations well in advance, for we had no idea how quickly the guided tours of this architectural mecca filled. As soon as I had their dates and approval, the reservations were made. Good plan, as participants in our morning tour of the public buildings, shared that they were unable to book the smaller and more intimate afternoon tour of the Miller Home and Gardens, now owned by the Indianapolis Museum of Art.

We enjoyed a leisurely two hour drive to Columbus, marvelling at the last of the fall color. We could not believe the Irwin Inn where we had booked our overnight reservations. Although we saw all the gorgeous rooms and gardens on the website, to be an overnight guest in this treasure was such a delight. This was the home of the extremely wealthy banker/venture capitalist in town. His chauffeur, Chessie Cummins, tinkered in the garage and developed the first Cummins Diesel engine. We toured the gardens with the owner of the inn before our daylight dwindled, then checked into our rooms. Although our rooms were pricey, we were constantly surprised by the graciousness of our host. We shared wine and appetizers (combination of the hosts and our own contribution), then walked a few blocks in the light rain to one of the three fine dining experiences. Our trip could have ended with the experience of the inn. Our trip could have ended with the experience of observing a vital city center in a small downtown. On our way back to the inn we chose our lunch destination, a restored Greek ice cream shop (huge) with a $3 million renovation.

The side view of the Irwin Inn and Gardens.
We stepped back in time an entire century. Just an incredible experience.

How would you like this for your butler's pantry?
The woodwork at the Irwin House was such a treasure.
Of course, I now wish I had taken many more photos.

The next day we freshened up for breakfast in our very old fashioned bathrooms, all in suite. Brad and Andrew stayed in the bachelors' room on the 3rd floor, and we stayed in the original owners' room on the 2nd floor. Might I add that 95% of the furnishings are original, and we were somewhat reminded of the Biltmore in Asheville, NC, with all the panelling and service fixtures. Then we checked out and moved on to the incredible Visitors' Center (VC) for our tours. The public building tour was two hours, and we walked to the first two venues which were adjacent to the VC and the Irwin House. Then we boarded the bus and motored around town, jaws dropping as we passed by the most innovative public buildings ever. We had a nice lunch and ice cream, again, a few blocks from the VC, then on to a smaller bus for the tour of the Irwin's grandson's home, an extremely contemporary offering of architecture, design, and gardens. I only took a few photos, as I so much more enjoyed the tour experience and the great company.

One of many sanctuaries that we visited.
Even a wide-angled lens would not have done this justice.

The Miller House and Gardens.
We were asked not to take photos, but I sneaked this in.

The Irwin Gardens pergola and wisteria.
Pond is covered in preparation for winter.

Irwin Garden detail. The bronze elephant was purchased following the St. Louis World Fair and Exposition.
Can't imagine what these gardens must look like at high season.

So many interesting views and private mini gardens at the Irwin Inn.